Day 8: Wiggington to Ivinghoe Beacon

We done it!

Sorry to repeat the same old stuff, but it really was lovely walking again, with distant views to the West as we worked our way up to the Beacon.  Not as challenging a final ascent as we had feared, it was all  rather gradual and pleasant.

First view of the Beacon, about 2 miles to go.

We met two blokes of about our age who were very friendly and who obviously did lots of walks together.  One of them took loads of pics at the Beacon:

and these were probably the best.  I think we both felt a bit emotional at this point, it feels like quite an achievement.  87 Ridgeway miles and 101 miles altogether in 8 days and we live to fight another day.  We parted ways shortly after this, Tony to get a lift with Liz, me to walk back to Tring Station and a train to London.

Thanks Tony you have been a great companion for the past week, hope we'll do another one before too long.

Day 7: Princes Risborough to Wigginton

We'd been lucky with the weather so far but today (well actually yesterday as I'm writing this on Wednesday (on the Paddington to Bristol train as you ask), that all changed and it rained on us all day. We both had rucksack covers, and there were mighty effective.  I don't think we took a picture between us all day, well you don't when you're wet and trudging along do you?

It was actually a terrific morning's walking despite the rain, including a stretch of Ridgeway across the Chequers Estate (which reminds me that Tony did take a pic or two.... here we are...)

 This is Chequers, click on photo for a chance to actually see it!

under the eye of Davie Cameron's security thugs, and where we saw a Muntjac Deer rocket out of a clump of trees and take off across a great expanse of pasture until it was out of sight.

Shortly after this we arrived at the summit of Combe Hill where there is a massive memorial to the Boer War.

We both had memories of visiting this site on a school trip, although we weren't in the same form so probably weren't there at the same time.  It sparked a cavalcade of memories about our happy days at Watford Grammar, and at least two teachers whom we drove to nervous breakdowns (yes 'whom'.  It WAS a Grammar School).

Lunch was in the Red Lion at Wendover, one of the very few refreshment stops actually on the Ridgeway. I sat on a leather-clad chair for about 10 minutes and when I got up water ran off it onto the floor.  THAT'S how wet I was.  Was really looking forward to a hot bowl of soup, but it turned out to be  Tomato and Basil, very nasty, definitely banning it (along with kiwi fruit) when I am in charge.

I can't remember much about the afternoon, apart from more walking, and continuous rain.

I had by this time started to have a couple of concerns about the walk.  I had sort of persuaded Tony early in the walk to have a pint of cider as a change from beer, and I think this may have tipped him over the edge into alcoholism, he's gone cider crazy.  The other issue, possibly connected, is that more and more of our conversation seems to touch on lewdness.  I won't expand on this point.

We got to the Greyhound at Wigginton a bit bedraggled, but a lovely warm welcome from the manageress, showers and change of clothes in our clean and comfortable rooms, and all was well with the world.  The post-walk drink started to turn into a promising session as they had Adnams, Timothy Taylor Landlord, and the superb local Tring Ales all on draught, slipping down a treat.  No need to ask what Tony was drinking.

The evening meal at the Greyhound was what Michael Winner would have called 'historic', one of the finest steaks I have ever had (they make a big thing about their tie-up with a prize-winning butcher in Berkhamstead, so this wasn't just steak, it was '30 day hung hand-killed Aberdeen Angus' or something) but it was real melt-in-the-mouth stuff.  Ribeye, by the way.  We also had a really good shared starter platter, featuring dressed crab, smoked salmon, mackerel, and roll mops (thanks for letting me have yours Tony)

Another Good Day.

Day 6: Watlington to Princes Risborough

I thought I had persuaded both femmes to join us for at least the morning part of today, but Nicola had things to do, given her departure for Cannes on Tuesday, but Margie came with us as far as The Crown at Chinnor where we had lunch.  It was another fine morning's walk, with pleasant weather, and the mixture of woodland, ridge walking, some fields, and a few quiet lanes which has characterised the  best of the Ridgeway.

Down to 2 in the afternoon, and a walk to Princes Risborough through more rolling countryside.  A bit of a trudge as we descended into town at the end of the walk, but a 13 mile day accomplished and we felt OK!

Horrible reception at the George and Dragon, waiting behind the local alkies at the bar to explain that we had accommodation, and being required to stump up £55 each on the spot.  However, the rooms were excellent, good beds, enormous tellies, and I had a bathroom the size of a Chelsea bedsit.

Not being constrained to eat at the pub, we found a local curry house.  Nothing lifts the spirits like a pint of Kingfisher and a great pile of poppadums.  We did actually have some more food there as well...

This was a Good Day.

Day 5: Goring to Watlington

Another long walk, should have been 14.7 miles but ended up a little longer...

I'm going to put a photo of moves showing 16.6 miles here when i've got wifi.

Much better walking than Saturday.  

Great views, varied surfaces, lots of variety, including a stretch alongside the Thames.

We reached the village of Nuffield, where we went wrong for the first time on the route when crossing the golf course, thereby adding about half a mile.  This was a double shame because we were on our way to meet Margaret and Nicola at the village pub, The George, and missed out on about half an hour's drinking time.  It was great to see them there when we finally made it at about 1.45, and we enjoyed pub drinks with our picnic (supplied by M & N) under the trees on the green.

 We saw lots of red kites on the walk, and if you look carefully you can see one here.

 Stopped in this graveyard for a rest.

We then had the most scenic and pleasant 6 miles of the Ridgeway so far, so the women chose a good bit to join in on.  .

Accommodation and evening meal at the Fat Fox, Watlington, to celebrate Nicola's birthday (and her new job).  A merry occasion, despite the best efforts of the Fat Fox to spoil it with some very poor service and not very nice food (my minging review is now on Trip Advisor)

Day 4: Letcombe Regis to Goring

15 miles, mostly rather boring.  A real trudge, and the Ridgeway was mostly flat (though elevated), with little of interest in the long distance views on our left hand side throughout the day, with the possible exception of Didcot Power Station, which dominates the mid-ground view.

Reaching Streatly (which is next to Goring, you go from one to the other by walking over the Thames bridge)

was a big contrast with the isolated feel of the past few days.  

An accommodation scare as our B&B owner had forgotten to put our booking in her diary, but all was OK and the accommodation, at Beam Ends, was very comfortable.  Excellent mean in the 'Miller of Mansfield' featuring an extraordinary Bouillabaisse (waitress didn't know what I was trying to order until I said 'Fish Soup')

Day 3: Bishopstone to Letcombe Regis

Mostly hilly walking today, about 10 miles with Swindon and Didcot both visible amid the panoramic views that accompanied most of our walking today.  

We passed the historic Waylands Smithy quite early in the day:

A high spot, both physically  and in terms of morale, was Uffington Castle, a hill fort from which we could see to distant horizons in every direction.

Comfortable accommodation at Quince Cottage in the very well-to-do village of Letcombe Regis, and  a memorable evening in the Greyhound pub, where we ate excellent fish and chips, and competed in their monthly quiz.  Mostly teams of 6 or 7 (packed with ex-dons the landlord told us), we entered as a team of 2 (the Ridgeway Boys).  Would love to blog that we won, but we certainly held our own, coming third in a couple of rounds (out of 8), and our results were cheered by the teams around us, after every round!

A very friendly pub then, with the landlord (Paul) buying us malt whiskies before we left.

Day 2: Ogbourne St George to Bishopstone

Life is good.  We started pounding the road just after 8.30 this morning, and arrived at our overnight stop at the Royal Oak, Bishopstone, just after 1.00 pm.  In the meantime, the Ridgeway offered us another wide range of walking experiences.  Notable were the views to our left (the north) during the first four miles or so, including a panorama which took in the entire city of Swindon.  OK, not a beautiful city, but part of a superb vista, and the feeling that we could see for miles.  The Way itself has certainly 'undulated' a good deal today, with the majority of the distance climbing or ascending, sometimes quite steeply.  We have walked through a good deal of quite lush woodland, and have mostly been on good paths.  However, our journey also included a rather unpleasant road walking section, with narrow raised but uneven side-paths, and lots of fast-moving traffic zooming past.  This stretch included crossing the M4 motorway, and in total went on for about 2 miles.

This is the shortest planned day in terms of miles - 8.7 miles of Ridgeway (9.6 miles according to Moves showing the bits between Ridgeway and accommodation at each end).  We are both suffering (mostly in manly silence) from sore feet.  Whilst our generously padded bodies play their part in this, I think the weight of our rucksacks is significant, so that even though the clever design of the bags means that you don't necessarily feel it in the shoulders, back or hips, the 18,915 steps that we have reportedly pounded down today take their toll on the soles of the feet.  Having a rest normally gives comfort for the next half hour or so, and I am sure that we will survive this.

So we arrived at the Royal Oak in time for beer and/or cider, and found that we are occupying their entire accommodation. 

 Our rooms are much less modern than last nights, but of a good size.  The good news is the best drinks making facilities I have come across, with coffee, tea, milk in fridge, caffetiere, good size mugs.  In my room (and I think also in Tony's) there is also a wooden table, with hard chairs, and an armchair,

 All good then, but the bed offers a particular challenge.  It's a fair size, perfectly comfortable (i have just emerged from a couple of hour's nap) and am now composing this at the table, drinking excellent coffee.  It's just really low, with a ferocious wooden frame around quite a soft mattress, so it's an absolute bugger to get out of.  If i muffle the frame edge with the duvet and roll off it, it's OK, but not very elegant.  It's a reminder not to have too much beer tonight as the fewer trips to the loo the better!

Tony and I are shortly to go for a pint, then dinner. so more later.  Actually, talking of food, the Inn with the Well packed lunch comprised an excellent ham and tomato sandwich, carton of juice, chocolate bar and two items which i left in my room, a very green looking apple, and a packet of cheddars.

OK back after supper.  Tony:  Razor Clams, Hake steak with butter beans, Ice-cream.  Ralph:  Crayfish, Lamb stew, Blackcurrant fool.  All pretty good.  Chat with the owner in the garden over a beer later, very friendly.